Saturday, June 18, 2011

Gifts from the heart

I had a very lovely birthday, full of good food and nice gifts. Steve bought me a beautiful scarf that I've been lusting after. I spent lots of time reading and responding to lovely emails and messages full of nice wishes. I ate bagels and cream cheese, and drank wine on the balcony, and took a lovely nap as the rain fell outside and cooled off the afternoon.

The most interesting part the day was the gift Sovann got for me.

He was excited to cook dinner in honor of my birthday, and I was very happy for him to do so. He made pork ribs and fish amok, and it was all delicious. In addition, he gave me a gift, presented in the same heart-shaped box that he had proudly presented to Jaz on Valentine's Day.

I couldn't imagine what would be inside.


No, really: I could never have imagined.


It was a big, juicy, American-size fried chicken leg. (And a little plastic bag of spicy sauce to go with it.)

He knows that my favorite part of the chicken is the leg. Here, chicken is more expensive than duck, and Cambodian chickens tend to be a bit scrawny, so he searched the market for the biggest one he could find, and he was proud to tell me how much he paid for it. (One dollar.)

If a gift is meant to reflect that you've put some thought and effort into choosing it, and that you've considered the recipient's tastes, he did a beautiful job, especially since this whole birthday-celebrating, gift-giving nonsense is a totally foreign concept for him.

I wish I could say that I do as well in my efforts to join in and understand foreign customs.

He apologized over and over for not having a "good gift" for me. I assured him over and over that I loved his gift and it was very thoughtful. He apologized again, this time because "Cambodian people are so poor." I reminded him that gifts are not always something you can buy, but often what you do for someone, what you give from your heart.

Americans may have the big wallets, but many Cambodian people have much bigger hearts.

It was a lovely birthday.

My customer service experience of the day

The setting: "Worldwide Technology", a deceptively-named computer shop in Siem Reap where I bought my laptop a few months ago. Their website is under construction, but their motto appears there: "We bring you to the latest technologies." Yesterday I brought the laptop in because six of the keys stopped working. 

Me: (Enter the shop)

Employee: (One runs into the back room, the other greets me with a big smile) "He go get for you!"

Me: "Thank you."(Back-room guy returns with my laptop.) "Is it fixed?"

Employee: (They exchange confused looks.) "Not sure."

Me: "Could we check?"

Employee: (After long pause) "You want turn on?"

Me: "Yes, can we check to see if it is fixed?" (Hopeful smile)

Employee: "OK" (They wander away)

Me: (Remove laptop from cover, hit power button. No response.) "Do you have power cord? So I can turn on?"

Employee: "You need power cord?"

Me: "Yes, power cord. So I can turn on."

Employee: "I think battery finished. No power."

Me: "Yes, I think so. Could I use a power cord to plug it in?" (Repeat this exchange again. Employees eventually produce power cord by opening a box with a new computer in it and removing the cord. After a few more minutes, they are able to find an outlet and get the laptop plugged in. I turn it on, bring up a new Word document, type the previously-reported-as-not-working keys and get no response.) "Not fixed yet. Still has the problem with the keys that don't work."

Employee: (Looks at me incredulously, then calls guy from the back room to come. Lively exchange in Khmer.) "Uh, you speak Khmer?"

Me: "No." (I'm never going to admit it even when I do, if I ever do.)

Employee: (More lively conversation in Khmer. Thanks to the globalization of language, I am able to pick out the English word "keyboard" many times.) "OK, but can work. Have to be strong strong with keys." (Guy from the back room begins pounding the offending keys with great vigor. Eventually, they begin to work.) "See? No problem." (Big smile.)

Me: "No, still a problem. I should not have to hit the keys 'strong strong.'"

Employee: "No, you hit strong strong and then work. No problem."

Me: "No, still a problem. It should be easy all the time. Just like the other keys, easy all the time. I think you still need to fix."

Employee: (After more Khmer conversation) "Cannot fix now. Now no problem. If no problem, cannot fix. We fix screen already last time!" (Referring to the time I had to take in last month when the screen crapped out.)

Me: "I know you fix the screen already. Thank you. But now we have one new problem: keyboard. This computer is not old. I buy from you five months ago. Should work easy easy all the time."

Employee: "But cannot fix now, because now no problem. You take home, bring back if problem again."

Me: "If I take it home, I think I will come back tomorrow because the problem will start again. Can you fix it if I come back tomorrow with same problem again?" [Only as I type this do I realize how I sound when I talk to Khmer people with limited English. Is it condescending or kind to simplify my grammar and vocabulary in order to be more easily understood?]

Employees: "Yeah, yeah. Maybe tomorrow." (Begin to wander off again.)

Me: "I think this laptop still has warranty. Maybe the company can fix."

Employee: "When we send to company, take long time. Go to China. Problem with keyboard, we cannot open laptop to fix. Only company can do."

Me: "OK, maybe we should send to the company. Maybe they can fix the problem." (Test the keyboard again myself. Find that the keys work easily, until I hit SHIFT and then they don't work at all.) "See? We still have the problem."

Employee: (Tests keyboard and confirms that keys don't work when SHIFT is pressed, even after vigorous pounding.) "Not work now because you press SHIFT."

Me: "Yes, exactly."

Employee: "If no press SHIFT, no problem."

Me: "But sometimes I must press SHIFT, when I need to make the big letter. So still have the problem."

Employee: (One gathers up laptop and heads in to the back room) "He go now, clean keyboard."

Me: "He's going to clean the keyboard?" (Employee nods to confirm understanding) "I think maybe he did that already, when he tried to fix yesterday."

Employee: "No, he not clean yet!"

Me: (slightly defeated) "How long until finished?"

Employee: (After shouted Khmer between front of shop and back room) "Not sure!"

Me: "Maybe I come back later..."

Just another day in Customer Service Land...Endlessly entertaining, but not so efficient.

Friday, June 17, 2011

In Cambodia, Comedians Double as Government Propagandists

This article is from The Atlantic, and can be found in its original form here. It has nothing to do with me directly, but I found it fascinating, and thought it might interest some of you who are curious about Cambodia and the general political situation. All credit belongs to The Atlantic and the author, Julia Wallace.





PHNOM PENH, Cambodia -- One recent Sunday afternoon, television audiences across Cambodia watched a middle-aged man named Krem as he was introduced to the mother of his young girlfriend.

The mother, Oeurn, looked dubiously at her daughter's poorly dressed, extravagantly mustachioed suitor.

"How did you spend the Cambodian New Year?" Oeurn asked him.

"I went to Preah Vihear," Krem replied, referring to a contested 11th century temple on the Thai border that has sparked several skirmishes between Cambodian and Thai forces over the past few years. "We performed comedy for the soldiers who protect us from Thai invasion. I would like to ask the New Year's angel to protect our soldiers and let them defeat the enemy."

A bit later, Krem abruptly announced to Oeurn, "Phnom Penh municipality now has less garbage and is cleaner. Do you know who did that?"

"Who?"

"It is because of Excellency Kep Chuktema, the governor. He has educated people and broadcast it on television not to litter, so now there is less garbage and no more bad smell."

It might not be precisely how every Cambodian villager addresses his prospective mother-in-law, but the exchange was par for the course on Bayon TV, where Krem's wildly popular comedy troupe performs a similar sketch every week, with goofy domestic scenarios routinely breaking into extravagant praise for government policy or officials aligned with the ruling Cambodian People's Party. The propaganda became even more pointed in late April, during 13 days of deadly border clashes with Thai forces.

Bayon, owned by the daughter of Cambodia's strongman prime minister, Hun Sen, is not alone: this kind of politicized comedy is shown on all of the country's eight television stations -- performed by comedians who, frequently, are also paid members of Hun Sen's personal bodyguard unit. Many of the comedians bear the rank of colonel or lieutenant colonel.

The country's dozens of "colonel comedians" underscore the extent to which Hun Sen and his CPP have consolidated power over the past two decades, successfully marginalizing not just rival politicians but also dissenting artistic and cultural voices.

"It is further evidence of the deep reach of Hun Sen's personal networks of loyalties, and the growing difficulty of doing opposition politics in Cambodia," said Duncan McCargo, a professor of Southeast Asian politics at the University of Leeds.

In 1997, Hun Sen -- who then served as co-prime minister in a coalition government with a royalist political party, Funcinpec -- staged a bloody coup, ousting his counterpart, Prince Norodom Ranariddh. Although Ranariddh was eventually allowed to return, Funcinpec suffered heavy losses in subsequent elections and never recovered. More recently, in 2009 and 2010, the government filed two separate lawsuits against Sam Rainsy, a liberal politician popular among urbanites and expatriate Cambodians. Rainsy, who had emerged as the new leader of the opposition, was ultimately sentenced to a total of 12 years in prison, leaving him in de facto exile in France. And over the past few years, the government has systematically sued activists, journalists, and critics of every ilk, levying steep fines or jail terms (one man was sentenced to two years for suggesting that a new lighting system at Angkor Wat could harm the 12th-century temple).

Although most of the colonel comedians' skits and sketches are only sporadically political, they sometimes venture into deeper ideological waters. In 2009, after U.S. Ambassador Carol Rodley infuriated the government with a speech on corruption, both Krem and his equally famous counterpart Koy launched a series of comedy routines that bitingly mocked international NGOs for their own corruption problems.
In 2005, Krem created a routine called "Be Careful Not to Overuse Your Rights" that cast aspersions on human rights workers who teach Cambodian villagers about equality. And, during every election season, the comedians barnstorm around the countryside on the CPP's behalf.

General Hing Bunheang, commander of the Prime Minister Bodyguard Unit, an autonomous section within the Royal Cambodian Armed Forces, confirmed that the unit had a bureau called the "Propaganda and Education Commission." It comprised 152 performers and artists, including the bulk of the country's comedians.

"Most of them are men, and they have the same rank as colonels. They have their own weapons," he said. As soldiers, the comedians "can go to battle with Thailand if there is a need," he added.

They can also misuse their weapons: In April, the popular comedian San Mao, also known as Colonel Thu Chamrong, was detained in Phnom Penh after firing his military-issue handgun in the air during a brawl. Police quickly released him, suggesting that the bodyguard unit discipline him.

According to General Bunheang, artists receive personal invitations from Hun Sen to join the unit and sometimes perform for audiences free of charge at the premier's request. He insisted that the members of the Propaganda and Education Commission are not engaged in propaganda.

"The bodyguard group is not for political propaganda but for entertaining people," he said.

Mu Sochua, a prominent opposition lawmaker, laughed at Bunheang's claim. Sochua had herself narrowly avoided a jail term after she was stripped of her parliamentary immunity and convicted of defaming the prime minister in 2009.

"It's a form of propaganda," she said. "It's not art, it's not promoting freedom of expression in the arts. ... The language that is used by the comedians, and sometimes even the gestures and the movements, convey a lot of power and authority and violence. And the message is all about good and evil."

Krem, the stage name of Colonel Ou Bunnarith, is a case in point. Perhaps the most passionately partisan of all the comedians, he displays an almost missionary zeal for winning converts to the CPP.

"Convincing people via artistic performances is very successful, and it is easy to take people out from their misbehavior or participation with the wrong political parties," he said in an interview.

Krem has been a household name in Cambodia since the 1980s, when the nation was only a few years removed from the ultra-communist Khmer Rouge regime and in the thick of a civil war with the movement's militant remnants. That is also when Krem first joined the Hun Sen bodyguards, which dispatched him to perform shows in Khmer Rouge-controlled areas to encourage defections.

"We were there to perform for the Khmer Rouge soldiers and propagandize for those soldiers to return to their motherland," he said. "We did political propaganda in our performances, and our words made them pleased."

Now that the Khmer Rouge have been eliminated, with the regime's four surviving senior leaders soon to be tried in Phnom Penh for war crimes, Krem applies his comedic talents toward ridiculing the country's rapidly shrinking political opposition. During the 2003 national election campaign, he produced and acted in a two-hour film called Mistletoe that lampooned both Prince Ranariddh and Sam Rainsy, portraying the former as a pleasure-seeking sycophant and the latter as an out-of-control meddler. In the lead-up to local elections in 2002, he created a short film that made fun of garment workers who protested in the streets for better wages.

"When the election campaign comes, we have to do a hundred percent propagandizing for ... the CPP," he said.

Koy, the stage name of Colonel Chuong Chy, a doughy, thick-featured man, is also active on behalf of the government. Of the four men in the comedy troupe that Koy leads, three of them -- including Kren, a popular comedian with dwarfism -- belong to the Prime Minister Bodyguard Unit. The fourth is an officer in the 70th Infantry Brigade of the Cambodian army, which is also closely linked to the premier and has been accused of human rights abuses.

Like Krem, Koy joined the bodyguards in the 1980s, starting out as a captain and rising to colonel two years ago in a mass promotion of entertainers. In person, he is terse and severe, rarely cracking a smile. Although he openly describes the work he does as propaganda, he insists his troupe writes all its own skits with no government input.

"We just tell people how good [Hun Sen] is, how he constructed the country, how many buildings he builds," Koy told me backstage after one of his performances, fiddling irritably with the keys to his Lexus. "Nobody tells us what to say. We just describe what we have seen- -- roads, schools, irrigation -- and make it a little bit funny."

Standing nearby was Koy's longtime friend, Colonel Chhum Bunchhoeurn of the 70th Infantry, still sporting painted-on white whiskers and eyebrows. Colonel Bunchhoeurn, best known by the stage name Banana, agreed that any political overtones to the group's comedy were totally coincidental.

"We don't have time to talk about [politics] because we're just concerned about striving to make people laugh," he said. "If we pretend to be a father, we're just concerned with being a father."
Still, in one of the troupe's recent shows, entitled "No Luck," a comedian known as Klouk (real name Lieutenant Colonel Tum Saruth), who was playing an elderly father, began talking politics almost as soon as he walked onstage.

"We just want to stay in peace, but [Thailand] does not want us to stay in peace -- they caused trouble, so now I have to go participate in the army and protect our territory from invasion," Klouk told a rapt studio audience, using exaggerated martial gestures to elicit gales of laughter.

Koul Panha, director of the Committee for Free and Fair Elections, a local NGO, said comedians such as Koy and Krem are immensely popular with Cambodian viewers, who don't always have many other entertainment options.

"It's very strange that many comedians, I mean famous comedians, become bodyguards with a military rank," he said. "People know it -- the prime minister gives public information about the comedians being bodyguards -- but they control the TV and ordinary people have no choice but to watch them."

Panha pointed out that all of Cambodia's eight TV stations are linked to the CPP in some way, creating a "very limited playing field" for opposition parties.

A decade ago, when Funcinpec was a more serious contender for power, it had its own comedian-affiliates. But as the party has dwindled over the past few years, its comedians have all defected to the CPP.

The best known of them, Lorcy, struggled for years to find work after campaigning for Funcinpec during the 2003 election season. He claimed he had been blacklisted from the airwaves and feared for his life. In 2009, he defected from Funcinpec and published an open letter of apology to Hun Sen through General Bunheang. His career immediately picked up. Krem invited him to join his troupe for a guest appearance, and now Lorcy regularly performs on two government-affiliated stations. On April 1, he became a lieutenant colonel in the bodyguard unit.

"I was really regretful of my mistake, which was why I apologized for forgiveness to be given to Samdech [Hun Sen]'s child, me," said Lorcy, using a Cambodian honorific that roughly translates as "Lord." "Samdech is a great leader. He forgave me for my mistake, which was done by accident, and I made a commitment to sacrifice my life to serve the party and Samdech."

Lorcy said he planned to devote the next stage of his career to "make and spread propaganda and send messages to people over the party's and Samdech's accomplishments."

Panha and Sochua said cases like Lorcy's showed that there was little freedom of expression for those whose views stray from the party line.

"It's a form of political discrimination," said Sochua, who noted that the comedians draw their military salaries from the national budget. "Every element that is painted as opposition is faced with this discrimination. It is a very sad state for democracy."

But Phay Siphan, a government spokesman, dismissed this criticism, saying that comedians and entertainers merely held a strong preference for the ruling party.

"Comedians can be CPP members and they do whatever they feel like doing to support the party. That's their own choice."

He said the government never dictated the content of comedy routines: "We are too busy to tell them to do this, to do that."

By all accounts, they don't need to.

"We work for the prime minister, so why should we perform for Sam Rainsy?" asked Krem. "If we eat a person's food, we have to work for that one."

Friday, June 03, 2011

Home is where the heart is. (Can it be in two places at once?)

     Oh, my poor neglected blog! I haven't written a thing for over a month, possibly because it was one of the busiest months of my entire life. And possibly because being in Vermont meant that most of the people who read this blog would only be reading about themselves and the various things we were doing together, and what fun would that be?

     But heartfelt thanks are due to many people who made our trip what it was. We can't possibly thank everyone by name (because I would feel awful if we forgot anyone, and because this isn't meant to read like an Academy Award acceptance speech) but we'd like to acknowledge how grateful we are to so many. Thank you to those who picked us up and dropped us off at airports, those who let us sleep in their spare rooms, who let us borrow their cars, who bought us breakfast and lunch and dinner (and coffee and beer and wine), and who cooked delicious meals for us. Thank you to those who arranged parties of all size so we could see lots of people at one time, and those who put money or toys or other things in our hands and said "Take it to Cambodia and do something good with it." Thank you to everyone who took time out of your own busy schedules to squeeze in a visit or two with us while we were in town, and to those who understood when our schedule was tight and we couldn't be as flexible as we wanted.

Our calendar -
the only way we could keep track of all our social events in Vermont!
     Special thanks to my parents, who hosted us the longest, let us put the greatest number of miles on their car, and generally put up with our invasion of their space with piles of our stuff as we sorted out things from our Jericho basement and new acquisitions while we were in reach of unlimited retail opportunities.

     And we certainly took advantage of the opportunity to acquire stuff! We came armed with a list, and  were able to check off almost everything. The list included everything from vitamins and prescription refills to Scotch tape and razor blades. We hit tag sales and bought children's books and toys for Steve's kids. We re-stocked Jaz with contact lenses and oatmeal and textbooks. We bought printer ink, and sugar-free iced tea mix, and a dish rack. We took our bread knife and favorite small cutting board from what is now my brother's kitchen in Jericho (and forgot to tell him for a few days - oops!) I bought fabric, and renewed my driver's license, and watched an entire season of The Amazing Race.

     We also ate cheese and ice cream (and many maple creemees), and drank microbrews and good wine. Thanks to the generosity of friends, we ate at some old favorite restaurants and tried a couple of new ones. We flinched constantly at the price of things and almost cried at the price of gasoline. We spent far too much time in cars and decided we don't miss driving one bit. We spent as much time as we could with family and friends and still felt like we couldn't see enough of everyone.

     And in the middle of it all, we went to the Bahamas for a few days for Dylan and Alanna's wedding, which was beautiful. White sand, blue water, and a gorgeous bride and groom made for a lovely way to spend a day. The wedding was held at Sandals, which provided about as stark a contrast to our everyday life in Cambodia as you could imagine, so I embraced it as a cross-cultural experience.We would have loved it if Jaz and Marissa had been able to be there; they were missed. I look forward to the next time all six of us will be together in the same place at the same time again, but as scattered as we are all, I don't know when that will be.

Skyler, Alanna, Dylan, and Jenny -
two lovely couples.
     What makes a place "home"? We went home to Vermont for a visit, and now we're home again in Cambodia. For me, home is the place that brings out the best in me, the place I want to be when I need to feel comfortable. Home is where there are people I love, who love me back. What I miss about Vermont is people who have known me for a long time, with whom I can have conversations without explaining how my own history fits into the story I'm telling. What I missed about Cambodia when I was gone was the simplicity of just being able to be in someone's presence without needing to tell a story or explain its context, but just to smile and share the present moment.

     On our first day back in Siem Reap, I took an early morning walk to take in the sights and smells and sounds. Later in the day, I rode my motorbike around town and enjoyed the wind in my face and the sun on my arms. I fell asleep that night to the sound of dogs barking. I felt like I was home again.

     How lucky, to have two homes. If only I could gather all the people I love and miss in one place or the other.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Sigh.

     Those of you who know me on Facebook may have noticed my posts about my computer - which started to make noises like a rainstick and is now on its way to China for repair - and about my back-up external hard drive - which just failed yesterday for no apparent reason, leaving me with a 4" x 6" paperweight which contains, but will not divulge, all of the Word documents I've ever created, as well as 120 GB of photos and 67GB of music. (In case you're wondering, I'm writing this on Steve's laptop.)

     Sigh. What did I do to deserve this? And what will become of me without my data?

     I was so pleased with myself for being the sort to make regular back-ups. It came in handy when my laptop was stolen in December, though my previous back-up had been in October so I still lost some stuff. Since then, I've made more frequent back-ups, so when my laptop had to go in for service and they told me it had to be sent to China, I congratulated myself for having backed everything up the very day before. I actually removed all my documents from the laptop before letting them send it off for repair, feeling like I didn't want some Chinese geek squad being able to read thousands of my personal and work-related documents. And then, three days later, the back-up hard drive just stopped working. The computer refuses to acknowledge its existence, no matter how many times I connect and disconnect it. I took it in to the local computer guys, who messed around with it for a while and then announced, "Sorry. Cannot fix."

      I like to think that my calm acceptance of this fact has something to do with my reshuffled priorities and healthier perspective about life in general. They're just documents, after all. It's not like I lost a loved one, or a kidney. But I may just be in denial, hoping that someone back home will be able to magically revive the hard drive.

     And if they can't, then I've lost a LOT of stuff. Journal entries, letters to and from friends over the years, research for work-related and other projects, silly birthday poems I've written, lists and more lists, tax returns,   resumes, etc. I suppose it would be like losing a box full of diaries and letters in a house fire or something. They might just be gone. Poof. Well, it wouldn't be the first time I've lost things in a fire, but I had hoped there wouldn't be a second time.

     And now that I don't have that big folder full of documents, I have to struggle to remember exactly what they all were. It seems they must have been very important, as I've been backing them up and moving them from one computer to another for years. I guess the lost tax returns could present a bit of a problem, but I don't think anything else will truly make my life difficult. Or maybe I won't know what else I lost and how important it is until months from now, when I need something and realize it's no longer there.

     What I do have - and wish I had more of - is a small collection of Google documents that live online and can be retrieved any time. At one point I had intended to back up everything I owned this way, but of course, I never got beyond a couple of folders' worth. And as far as music and photos go, all the music I really ever listen to is still on my iPod and about 16GB of photos are backed up on Picasa online. So it's not the end of the world, but still...

     Instead of thinking about this much, I'm trying to concentrate on the Things That Make Me Happy. Today, that list looks like this:

  1. Having a productive day at work
  2. Riding my motorcycle
  3. Cheese
  4. Knowing that next week I can eat cheese every day
     I might be thinking about cheese a lot because just to top off this unfortunate week, I got a stomach bug (or I ate something that didn't agree with me) and it happened to coincide with an evening we invited someone for dinner who brought an enormous selection of cheese. Cheese is a rare and beautiful - and expensive - thing here, and this was like a cheese orgy on a plate, straight from the most expensive hotel in town (where this woman happens to work.) And I couldn't eat any of it. 

     Sigh. What did I do to deserve this?

     So it's not my best week. And the weather - which was unseasonably and delightfully rainy for a week or so (thanks to my laptop/rainstick) has become more seasonably hot. It's 94 degrees in the shade right now. And the many pounds that I've gained since I got here are weighing heavily on me, both because of the heat and because I have no idea whether I have any warm clothes waiting for me in Vermont that will fit. (Those of you who have known me for a long time will not be shocked to hear that I've gained weight, since I've been gaining and losing for 20+ years, but I had hoped that a tropical climate would somehow make me immune to my usual ups and downs. Well, I certainly can't blame the weight gain on cheese.)

      We'll be home one week from now, which is strangely disorienting. I'm not excited about the travel itself - which will be arduous and far too long - but I'm excited to be home, to see my friends and family, to visit our house (even if it's full of other people's stuff), to smell the lilacs, to drink some good wine, to get a new driver's license, and to buy some good deodorant. I wonder what it will feel like to drive a car for the first time in more than eight months and how it will feel to enter the VNA building through the front door rather than slipping in through the staff entrance. I wonder what I will miss about Cambodia while we're in Vermont and how we'll manage the sticker shock of American prices. I wonder what it will feel like to see my son get married!

      I wonder if any American tech geek will be able to fix my hard drive....
     

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

And now, imagine this.

     While in the village one morning over Khmer New Year, a man lounging on the side of the road said, “Good morning, sir!” as we went by. His pronunciation was much clearer than any other local person we have ever heard, and we joked that he must have been practicing that phrase for years, just waiting for a foreigner to show up so he could use it. 

     Imagine our surprise when a little later in the morning he approached us and said, quite clearly, “Can you spare any change? I’m totally broke.” I did a double-take, and my first response was, “Where did you learn English???” 

     In California, it turns out. He and his family were Cambodian refugees who arrived in California in 1982 when he was just a little kid. He grew up there, dropped out of school, and got in trouble. “Three strikes, man. They deported me. Seven years ago. It’s really rough.” I’m guessing that neither nor his parents ever did what they needed to do to make him a citizen, so when he screwed up too many times, he was outta there.  (See more info about deportation of Cambodian refugees at Wikipedia , this newspaper article and this report.) So this guy, who spoke no Khmer and probably lacked some socially-acceptable basic life skills, found himself in a small village in Cambodia, a country he hadn’t been in for over 20 years, if ever – he may have been born in a Thai refugee camp. 

     It was so strangely disorienting to look at this obviously Khmer guy and listen to him speak English in his inner-city American accent. He went on for a few minutes about how we should contact a guy in San Luis Obispo who worked at the Conservation Corps – perhaps this was one of the stops during his misguided youth where they tried to help him turn his life around, without success, apparently. In retrospect, I wish I had talked to him a bit longer, but his mission was clear – he was looking for some money. I gave him a couple of dollars’ worth of riel. And 20 minutes later, he approached us again down the road. “Can you spare a quarter or something. I’m really broke.” I reminded him that he had already asked us once – ”I know.” – and we had already given him money – “I know. I spent it already.” I declined to give him any more. 

     I wondered how often he got to talk to other native English speakers. I wondered how he gets by day-to-day. I wondered if he had been part of a Cambodian gang in California – his tattoos would suggest that he was. I wondered if he had ever really had a decent chance in life. I wondered a lot of things.  

Susdei Chnam Thmey! (Happy Khmer New Year!)



     Going to stay in the Cambodian countryside is an adventure. Going there during the week of Khmer New Year is exponentially more interesting.

     Staying in the village is like camping, only louder and with fewer modern facilities. It’s loud because Khmer New Year is the holiday of all holidays here, and it goes on for days, and celebrations here always call for LOUD MUSIC at least 15 hours per day. Normally quiet pagodas and their grounds are turned into county fairs/nightclubs/boxing rings/food festivals. It would appear that the whole village attends, and if it’s a particularly big affair like the one in Rung Chrey village, people come from villages miles around.  Svay Duonkeo village had a slightly smaller affair, and we were lucky enough to attend both.

     Imagine an area about the size of a football field, with a Buddhist wat in the middle. Set up all around the wat are makeshift palm leaf and bamboo food stalls selling every kind of rice, noodles, meat, fish, and fruit that you can imagine – and many that you cannot. Christmas lights and fluorescent bulbs are strung somewhat haphazardly in every direction and are surrounded by clouds of bugs.  The ground is littered with plastic bags and empty beer cans and greasy napkins. (Keep in mind that even on restaurant tables, the most commonly found “napkin” here is a roll of pink toilet paper.) There are games  – especially the classic Khmer carnival game where for 25 cents you can throw a dart at a wall of balloons in the hope of winning anything from the plethora of prizes being displayed: bottles of Khmer whiskey or dish detergent, boxes of crackers, metal bowls, and plastic ware in all shapes and sizes. There are carnival rides – a ferris wheel that looks like it may have been beamed here from 1947, and for the littler ones there's a spinning contraption with plastic cars and animals hanging in metal cages. There is a boxing ring, curtained off from free viewing by an assortment of tarps. And there is a place to dance: an area marked by a wall of ancient Peavey speakers that stretches 25 feet long by 6 feet high, with a pole planted in the middle of the open ground nearby  – for in this country, one must always dance around in a circle, and the pole marks the center. The noise is deafening and distorted and is a mixed playlist of traditional Khmer music and pounding Khmer hip-hop. The air is thick with the smoke from the food stalls and cigarettes. It’s 87 degrees – which is a welcome change from the heat of the day - and you can feel a trickle of sweat running down your spine, and then lower still.

We had a run of good luck!



     And you must dance. It is completely unthinkable not to dance, especially if you are the only foreign guests within who knows how many square miles. The village chief insists on dancing with you, and when you try to take a break and catch your breath, strange men drag you back onto the dance floor. Children thread their way through the dancing crowd to sidle up and grin at you. Sometimes someone hands you a beer while you’re dancing, which goes down fast and easy to replenish the copious amounts of sweat that you’re producing. Sometimes people run up with a handful of baby powder and spread it all over your face. (It’s a Khmer New Year thing, and you learn quickly to close your eyes and hold your breath when you see it coming.) And those with cell phone cameras aim them at you, sometimes following you around the circle to get the best close-up shots or low-res video footage they can manage. As you dance, you look out into the crowd gathered around and see people of all ages who seem most interested in watching you, smiling at you, nudging their friends and pointing at you. You also see an occasional policeman, with a machine gun, and you’re told it’s make sure the “gangsters” don’t cause any trouble.

The village chief takes his dancing pretty seriously.



During the day, we ran into these "dancers" at the market,
accompanied by traditional Khmer musicians. 
      And all of this happens in the evening, after you’ve spent the day sitting around with all the men while the women bring you food and drinks and all the neighbors come by to look at the foreigners. You will be served chicken and duck and dog, and when you recognize that the morsel in your hands is a paw, you will politely pass it to someone who will appreciate it more than you will. You smile a lot, and offer traditional greetings, and quickly exhaust your seven-word Khmer vocabulary. Someone is kind enough to translate some of the questions people would like to ask you, and the answers always trigger laughter and general amusement. As the big plastic beer cooler is emptied and replenished, you must raise your glass and toast “Chul Muoy!” again and again, provoking more laughter and delight. Later, when you rise from your much-needed afternoon nap, you will hear that “many more people came to see the foreigners, but we told them you were sleeping” and you will feel bad for disappointing them. (And you will wonder if perhaps they peeked in at you while you slept.)

The women cook...
...while the men (and I) eat and drink.
The food never seems to stop coming.
One of many delicious meals with Sovann's family
The kitchen. No electricity or running water, chickens underfoot.
The food is great.
     Somewhere between the nap and the dancing at the pagoda, you will be offered a ride on an “ox-cart” which turns out to be a wagon pulled by the ubiquitous Khmer tractor, which oddly resembles an oversized rototiller. You will bump along admiring the rice fields and fruit trees, and then you will be paraded down the main road of the village so everyone can have a chance to notice you. People will smile, stare, do double-takes, and wave. You will hear people exclaiming in Khmer, and you hear the word “barang” over and over and over, which means foreigner. As you pass one house where some people are drinking and dancing, they chase after the wagon until it stops. Then they pull you off and drag you to their house, where they will squeal in drunken delight, cover you with powder, and stuff bananas in your mouth and dance you around and around their yard.



     At the end of the night, when you can’t dance for another minute, you can go back to the home of your generous hosts to sleep, but first you will want to wash off all the sweat and dust and smoke and grime. This will require bathing outside, scooping water from an enormous urn and pouring it all over yourself while trying to make sure your sarong doesn’t fall off and leave your large white body glowing in the moonlight in front of your hosts. You will be thankful for the darkness, because performing this feat in broad daylight while a dozen or so family members wander by (and sometimes try to engage you in conversation) is still quite a challenge, despite a few days of practice. You will daydream about the shower in your bathroom back in Siem Reap and vow never to take it for granted again. Then you will crawl up the stairs to your room, where a bright pink mosquito net has been carefully hung over a straw mat on the wooden floor, and the oppressive heat that accumulated all day through the tin roof still lingers. As you attempt to arrange yourself on the floor under the net, the music from the pagoda will sound as though it’s coming from the front yard, but the noise, the hard floor, and the heat will not stop you from falling into an exhausted sleep - until 4:00 am, when the music resumes and the monks begin to make announcements over their loudspeakers. Then you’ll wake up and do it all over again, because this holiday goes on and on and on.

If you're in the mood for some fresh coconut,
someone will happily climb a tree for you.

I was happy to read that almost 2000 land mines and 37 UXO
had been removed well before we arrived in Svay Duonkeo.

Jaz spent the whole week in the village. She read a lot of books.

Sovann's family getting their New Year blessing from mom.

The markets are busy this time of year.
Sovann's family cow

Artwork in process on the outside of a pagoda being built.

     I have no idea why I wrote this in the second person. Maybe just because during those three days, I repeatedly thought to myself, “I can never fully explain this experience to anyone who hasn’t been here. No one will really be able to imagine what this is like.” I guess I wanted to try anyway.

     I also feel compelled to say that the story told here is factual, but it's a blend of experiences from the two villages where we stayed. Not that I think that 60 Minutes will show up to expose the inaccuracies in my blog entry, but I like to admit my use of artistic license when I’ve made use of it.


Edited to add: Sorry for all the typos. Steve is now pointing them out to me. Feel free to point out those that remain so I can fix them!